Magic in Morocco: Essaouira

Magic in Morocco: Essaouira is an adventurers and surfers' paradise rich in African, Oriental and European history.
Essaouira is a deeply magical place that has remained largely unchanged since I last went there 25 years ago, with glorious sandy beaches, constant sunshine, fabulous food and the best water sports this side of the Atlantic. Also known as Mogador it is on the path to modernisation and wisely aimed at the luxury market, a wonderful mix of French style and North African romance and adventure; everyone speaks French, English and Arabic and the culture and cuisine reflect these influences and characteristics.
The weather is beautiful all year round and the flight from London to Marrakesh is only three and a half hours which is why it is such a popular destination for people like Philip Green, Carla Bruni and Richard Branson who all have stunning houses in the town centre. Richard Branson's sister Vanessa even runs the popular North African art festival, The Marrakesh Biennale, presenting visual arts, literature and film programs featuring acclaimed international and Moroccan artists between February and June.
After landing in Marrakesh I went straight to the Cafe de La Poste, much favoured by wealthy internationals, for  a leisurely lunch to soak up some of the capital's atmosphere and await my ride down the coast.  Essaouira is a three hour drive south straight down the motorway through some of the most picturesque towns and villages you will ever see. Keep an eye out for the goats sitting high in the trees, sometimes as many as 10 or more, it is a surreal sight.
I was staying at the new hotel Sofitel Essaouira Mogador Golf & Spa which has just been designed as part of King Mohammed's plan "Azure Vision 2010" to build 6 luxury coastal resorts in Morocco. The eco friendly development consists of the beautifully decorated luxury hotel with numerous pools, the Gary Player Golf course, golf villas which are for sale and the cultural and artistic village that will support local education and Moroccan artists. Needless to say I first popped into the resort's Amman to relax and get into the spirit of things and then lounged in the gigantic pool overlooking the golf course before venturing into Essaouira.
Essaouira is a stunning town founded in the 7th century BC and started life as a settlement producing the purple dye derived from Murex snail shells favoured by the Romans and Pheoenicians. It still has an old 16th century Portuguese fort with canons pointing out to sea and the Scala or spice market is the epitome of the Moroccan bazaar with its little lanes spiralling through the old fortifications packed with curiosities, artists and local crafts. It has been a trading port for centuries and in the 19th century was a free trade zone with the largest Jewish community on the coast who traded spices from Timbuktu. I highly recommend buying some of the perfume essences in the market which are the natural raw ingredients used in the most expensive luxury perfumes in the world and smell divine.
Orson Welles stayed in Essaouira whilst filming his classic version of Othello in 1948 which later won the Palme D'Or in Cannes and you can easily recognise the street locations used while wandering around the fort and there is a small square named after him outside the medina which still has a bust dedicated to the great director. Mick Jagger, Cat Stevens and Jimi Hendrix also came here regularly in the sixties and the Riad Al Medina is the quaint hotel where Jimi loved to stay which has three floor balconies surrounding a beautiful inner garden courtyard festooned with fountains and birds.
Try the terrace rooftop restaurant Taros in the old town which is owned by a dapper elderly French gent who can swipe your watch without you noticing a thing, all while chatting pleasantly, and then present it back to you in a box. Just be happy he gives it back, he'd be very popular at the Basle watch fair. They also have live Moroccan music and brilliant close quarter magicians which give the bar an exciting happening atmosphere.
Another classic venue in Essaouira is L'Heure Bleu, Relais Chateau recommended and possibly the smartest place in Essaouira, a mix of French colonial and Moroccan with deep leather armchairs and giant chandeliers amidst an inner courtyard tropical jungle. 
 
I would also recommend popping into the lovely Madada hotel and the Atelier next door where they teach traditional Moroccan cooking and you all make your dinner under charming instruction  from the chefs, they teach a mean Tajine.
The highlight of the trip was Kite surfing with Club Mistral which also has a wonderful bar restaurant overlooking the beach and is the place for the Surf Maestros to hang out and be seen. It is an unbeatable experience Kite surfing amongst camels and arabian horses, with surfers and windsurfers whizzing past. The instructor quickly teaches you to set up your kite with the left and right strings,  demonstrating the rudder technique to balance the kite and to control the wind's force by pulling or pushing the central bar. You practice moving the kite from one side to another in degrees and landing it gently on the ground and then progress to sliding up and down  the beach at great speed on your backside, which is hilarious,  before shifting to the water where you body surf behind the kite for a while and then graduate to the  glorious hallelujah moment of  standing on the board and attempting water starts.
It takes 6 to 12 hours to get out on the board depending how good you are and you see all levels of surfers who show a great communal spirit with an electric atmosphere as everyone wills each other on. Just watching the pros is awe inspiring as they jump effortlessly over the surf literally flying in and out of the beach, summersaulting over the waves like airborne dolphins. Polo may be the sport of Kings, but this is the sport of aquatic angels.
Essaouira means "well designed" and it certainly is, it has it all, spend a few days in Marrakesh first and then relax in romantic luxury in Essaouira for as long as you can.